Vietnam: part 1

Hanoi traffic cop.

We just returned from a wild and fascinating trip to Vietnam. During our 10-day stay we went shopping, scuba diving, hiking and beach camping. We also got to share time with friends in Hanoi and met a friend from home in Hoi An. We flew in to Hanoi, where we stayed for three nights at the Golden Sun Lakeview Hotel, about a block away from Hoan Kiem Lake, in the heart of Hanoi’s old town center. We spent a few days in Hanoi before flying south to Da Nang and traveling by car half-an-hour south to beautiful city of Hoi An.  A note to travelers: this is the busiest time of year to travel within Vietnam. Vietnamese travel all over the country to enjoy some time off during the week prior, and flights can be tricky to arrange. Stay flexible with dates and relax. It’s still cheap and easy to get around. And if you do get stuck there’s plenty to tantalize all five senses. Let’s start with two.

Sight & Hearing

Scooters are everywhere in Vietnam.

Hanoi traffic hits you with a full frontal assault on the eyes and ears; it is a truly bewildering experience. Cars, cabs, bicycles and scooters fly from every direction into one another, yet somehow avoid near constant collisions. It’s like blood cells pulsing through an artery the way the massive swarms of honking scooter traffic squeezed down the clogged boulevards of Hanoi. There is an art to crossing Hanoi’s busy streets. If you wait for traffic to stop in order to cross the street you won’t get anywhere. Look both ways for a light break then slowly walk into traffic, being careful not to dart around like a Frogger game, or to suddenly stop like a deer caught in headlights. The scooters will go around you, believe it or not. You would think that with such dodgy traffic road-rage would be an issue, but people simply honk and go around you heading off on whatever errands they are tasked with.

Deepfreeze on a scooter.

Scooter traffic in Asia is quite a sight. It is not unusual to see entire families sharing the seats of a two-stroke moped. Every type of payload imaginable is conveyed on these tiny steeds. It’s not uncommon to see entire construction crews hauling material like concrete mixers and loads of block. In Hoi An, for example, there are fewer trucks in the old town, so almost everything is carried by scooter. Workers in flip-flops would balance heavy loads and weave through traffic with such dexterity it would make bike messengers jealous. There are traffic lights on major intersections, but it’s best to stay vigilant but relaxed when crossing the streets.

Hang Bong Street.

In Hanoi the constant cacophony that bleats from the shrill horns of the scooters lasts from dawn to dusk, and late into the night. It adds little to the romantic feeling that Hanoi has on display. The streets of the neighborhood we stayed in were lined with decaying French facades festooned with red banners, which hang in from nearly every tree and lamppost in advance of Victory Day (also called Reunification day and Liberation Day) on April 30, commemorating the North Vietnamese takeover of Saigon in 1975. A note to travelers: this is the busiest time of year to travel within Vietnam.

Hoan Kiem District.

Yangshuo 7th Grade Camp Trip

Moon Hill

Hey folks, I know you’ve been waiting from some posts from China, but after spending a week with 29 seventh-graders on the Mainland, I spent each night reading a book and sleeping early while attempting to take nice pictures of the stunning scenery during the five-day camp. The program staff, from Asia Pacific Adventures, took the kids through a number of team-building adventures and physical challenges, such as rock climbing, land navigation and abseiling. They also brought our students to a couple local school to practice their Mandarin by teaching classes and playing games with the students, with the focus of their teaching on English language exercises and vocabulary.

Two of our students share a painting lesson with local Chinese children.

It was eye-opening to see the students in a different environment. My perceptions changed greatly. I know that many of the students tried things that were new and frightening for them, overcoming their fears, but I feel as if I also got something out of camp to: it made me see them as more human.

Student abseiling high above the Yangshuo landscape.

The area of Yangshuo, located about an hour by bus from the airport in Guilin, is covered with massive pinnacles of limestone karsts, which are filled with caves and caverns that are ideal for climbing and caving. We stayed at the Yangshuo Mountain Retreat, right on the bank of the Yulong River. The view out the front door was one of amazing vertical green giants, ancient limestone phalluses, and tiny walled patches where the local famers tended to their orchards and livestock.

The view of the river from the resort.

The resort, which retains a very local atmosphere, using linens made by local cotton farmers and traditional Chinese furniture and decor, also has a very Western feel. It is one of China’s premier eco-tourist spots, situated near ancient looking mud-brick walled villages.

Wandering through the little hamlets was like taking a step back in time. There were no major roads or large vehicles (save for the occasional tour bus), and we saw loads of bicycles and quite a few water buffalo on our hikes. We did see a number of these curious-looking tree-wheeled vehicle that looked like a cross between a Thai-style Tuk Tuk and a large John Deere riding mower. Other than the water buffalo they are pretty much the workhorses of the villages.

Tractor-like truck.

The hotel itself was comfy and warm; though we got the kids quite wet and muddy during our 5-day adventure. The camp counselors split the class into four groups, which remained together during the week. Each group had to pick a team captain, all four of which were girls. Other students in the groups had various assignments: spirit holder, hydration manager, land-nav expert, timekeeper. Every student had a role.

Some students at the beginning of their adventure challenge.

The students were also forbidden from bringing personal electronics, such as: cellphone, iPads, iPods, portable game consoles. They instead brought books, journal pads and enough imagination to come up with hours of chants, cheers and songs. Even throughout some minor grumbling about the weather or disputes between team members the students did start to operate as cohesive teams, cheering on their teammates while they performed frightening tasks. One student, who swore he would never try abseiling, overcame his fear and did what he thought to be an impossible task. Watching him come down the cliff face was a wonderful thing.

Chinese students having fun during our visit.

Looking back at the camp experience, I realized that I really do want to pursue teaching as a career; not for the crazy-huge benefits like reasonable pay and health insurance, but because I genuinely like being around these kids.

For more pictures from this trip, look at my photos on Flickr.

Our students practicing their Mandarin and bartering skills.

Judge My Students’ Writing

That’s right, I want you to judge my students’ ability to collectively write a paragraph about what makes Hong Kong interesting. Below are writing samples from the two seventh-grade classes that I work with. In the course of getting them to brainstorm and write a coherent paragraph, I told them that I would post these on the Internet to find out what the general public thought about their ability to write.  I won’t tell you anything about what they have written. I put the onus on them to present their ideas clearly to an audience who may or may not understand what they are trying to say. I also made them edit these themselves.

Please read them both and leave some feedback in the comments section so that I can share the feedback with my students. Facebook is blocked at our school, so if you do have something to say, and I hope you do, please post it on the blog site.

Thanks again. I will be posting some more soon about Dragonboating and martial arts.

Paragraph 1
There are four entertaining activities that encourage tourists to come to Hong Kong. One of the main things that interests tourists may be attractions such as city districts, natural areas, cultural sites, and entertainment. For example, it is a fantastic idea to ride the tram to the Peak and take pictures of the breathtaking skyline. After seeing the skyline, you might be hungry and Hong Kong has a wide range of international delicacies that you can choose from. Out of all the options, Chinese cuisine is a popular choice. When you’re finished with your food, you can walk it off by going shopping in Hong Kong’s malls and markets.  There is a wide range of goods from luxury items to great bargains; one of the popular places to find reasonable prices is Stanley Market. At the end of the day you might want to relax, and a pleasurable way to do that is to enjoy one of Hong Kong’s many events such as, the weekly horse races or the annual Dragon Boat Festival. Overall, tourists may want to visit Hong Kong for a trip jam-packed with attractions, food, shopping and special events.

Paragraph 2

There are four main reasons why tourists might travel to Hong Kong. First of all, there are many attractions such as outdoor adventures, cultural sites, and kids’ activities. One example is Ocean Park, which is a great place for the whole family because there are lots of rides, animals to see, and a cable car. Besides attractions, you can enjoy popular shops that vary from cheap to expensive. There are lots of markets and malls that can amaze you with what they have to offer. In addition to amazing shopping, you can also enjoy scrumptious food. You can choose from a wide selection of international cuisines including Hong Kong’s famous dim sum. Finally, in this diverse metropolis there are many exciting events such as the Rugby 7s and Chinese New Year fireworks. So as you can see, tourists may want to come to Hong Kong because they can see cool attractions, shop, eat delicious food, and watch amazing events.

Kung Hei Fat Choi!

Happy Chinese New Year! We have had the week off, spending our time at home instead of traveling abroad, and exploring what Hong Kong has to offer during the new years celebrations.

Hong Kong Judo Kan with visiting professors from Japan.

I spent the first part of the break going to judo and training with some esteemed visitors from Japan, including 4-time world champion Shozo Fujii and police instructor Tsukio Kawahara, who was chosen for Japan’s 1980 Olympic Judo team, although Japan boycotted the games. After a great workout we went to a family style Cantonese feast at Michelin-rated Tai Woo restaurant. After dinner a few of us went to the Canny Man in Wan Chai, located in the basement of the Wharney Guang Dong Hotel, for a couple drinks. Our host, who is a member of their whiskey club, shared some of his top-shelf single malt Scotch while we watched Japan defeat Australia live on satellite TV. It was a pretty fun start for the New Year break.

Regina on Dragon's Back with Shek O in the background.

We spent one sunny afternoon hiking the Dragon’s Back, located in Eastern District of Hong Kong Island. The trail starts in Shek O Country Park, just above the village of Shek O, where after a steep climb we had a fantastic view of Shek O to the east, and Tai Tam Bay and Stanley to the West.

We could hear some of the loudest birdsongs we had yet experienced in Hong Kong as we walked the shaded paths on the western slope. If was hard to tell that we were even in Hong Kong. The hike we took is usually pretty crowded, I’ve been told, but since it was a holiday for many Chinese, we had much of the trail to ourselves.

The trail meanders along the ridge for about 4 km before dropping down in to Big Wave Bay, a tiny village down the road from Shek O. Big Wave Bay is a popular spot for surfers (even though signs warn against it). Both Shek O and Big Wave Bay are dotted with surf shops and seafood restaurants. We hiked with some colleagues who live there. Being in their village was a little bit like being on vacation.

Rooftop dining in Sai Kung.

The following day we went to our friend’s place in Sai Kung, which is across the harbor from the island in what is called the New Territories. Sai Kung is home to one of the largest country parks in the Hong Kong region. We were treated to some delicious home cooked food, including Vietnamese style chicken legs, a spicy daikon and bean with chicken salad, followed by some mango wrapped in spring roll sheets which were deep fried and covered in chocolate sauce.

We stayed the night and helped clean up our friend’s apartment. When our host awoke we were treated to a delicious breakfast of bacon, eggs, potatoes and chicken, with a stunning, sunny view of the islands off of Sai Kung village. Our trip home on double-decker public buses was a little long, but well worth the views we were treated to. That evening Regina worked on some paintings, including two new self portraits. I found time to catch up on some desperately desired reading.

Hanging incense coils at Man Mo Temple.

On Friday morning Reg stayed in to paint while I took my camera and headed towards some of the local temples. Many of the temples were crowded with families who were making offerings of incense and Joss sticks. At Man Mo Temple, one of the oldest and most popular in Hong Kong, there were attendants who loaded furnaces filled with burning gilt-paper offerings as throngs of local Chinese queued to get into the temples’ tiny antechambers. The inside of the temple was filled with a thick cloud of smoke from the countless burning offerings and with the sounds of bells drums and gongs. You can smell the sweet scent of the temple incense from a block away.

Guardian at Man Mo Temple.

The streets of normally busy Hollywood Road were nearly deserted, as most of the shops were closed. Much of Hong Kong closes for the holidays as it is customary to spend the holidays with one’s family. It was nice to slowly stroll down the quiet city streets. That evening we went down to the Central Pier to catch a junk out onto the harbor for some Chinese fireworks. We couldn’t have asked for better weather … just cleaner air. After a 20-minute explosion spectacular, we could barely see the skyline of Hong Kong. A thick, black haze of acrid smoke stung the nostrils as it hung in the evening air before finally settled to sea level, which is where we were trying to breathe. I must admit, I do like that smell.

Mmm ... delicious rabbits.

Well, there are still two days left in this weekend, and we’re off to enjoy it.
Gung Hei Fat Choi! Have a Happy Year of the Rabbit!

Stanley and St. Stephen’s

So Chinese New Year is fast approaching and I have yet to post anything new this year, so here goes.

New Years Junk Trip.

We arrived back in Hong Kong on December 31, after spending Christmas with our friends in Melbourne, Australia. We took a junk out onto the harbor to watch the New Year’s fireworks with friends and colleagues. The electricity on the boat didn’t work, so there were no lights and no sound system. There were however several talented musicians who brought their instruments and entertained those who stayed in the warmth of the lower deck. The fireworks weren’t as cool as the ones during Mid-Autumn Festival, and will be nothing compared to the Chinese New Years fireworks next week, but it was still fun.

We hit the ground running when we returned to work that Monday, and many of the students came back with all variety of bugs and illnesses. Needless to say most of us fell victim to at least some of the communicable maladies our charming students had to share with us, and I was no exception. We also were on a tight schedule to finish student reports for report cards. But with that behind us, it was time to get out and enjoy a little more of this fabulous city.

Two weeks ago we took a little hike around Stanley, which is located on the Southern part of Hong Kong island. Stanley is famous for a number of things: it’s street market, beaches, restaurants and bars, Murray House and other historic buildings. We spent the day with friends who graciously listened to me ramble about the historical significance of each attraction, while we also ambled along the row houses and beaches, eventually making our way through Stanley Market.

Murray House and Blake Pier

The first site we visited was Murray House, which originally stood in Central Hong Kong. Originally located in Central, it was built as quarters for the British officers stationed in Hong Kong. It was taken over by the Japanese after they invaded in December of 1941. They used it as an interrogation center, and many people were executed within its walls. After the war the British turned it into a government building, but many of the Chinese civil servants refused to work in the building until the spirits of the dead had been put to rest. After a week-long exorcism the building was deemed safe for work, and was used for a variety of civic duties. It was demolished in the early 80s to make way for the Bank of China building, but each brick, boulder and beam was cataloged and stored until it was rebuilt at its present location in 1998. It now houses a maritime museum and restaurants.

Taoist Temple at the Ancient Well.

Next to Murray house stands Blake Pier, named for former Governor William Blake, who as governor from 1898 to 1903 saw Hong Kong through a time of immense change. This structure was also moved from Central for the construction of the Central Pier. It was erected in Kowloon before it was re-erected 40 years later at its present location. A short walk from here led us past the Tin Hau temple, which was built to protect fishermen and seafarers. We walked along one of the nature paths near Murray House until we came up to a Taoist temple facing the ocean. The pungent scent of incense and Joss sticks permeated the air as we neared the small shrine. We saw many different kinds of birds, and huge Banyan trees sent webs of roots over the stone walls and rocks along the path.

Web of creeping Banyan roots.

Stanley is also home to some of the darker aspects of Hong Kong’s history. Stanley was where the British forces made their last stand against the army of the Empire of Japan. We walked away from the hustle and bustle of Stanley Market and headed for St. Stephen’s College, which was the site of one of the grislier episodes of the Japanese assault. When the British surrendered on Christmas of 1941, the Japanese executed wounded prisoners, beheaded the medical staff, and raped and beheaded the nurses.

Stanley Military Cemetery.

The college grounds, as well as neighboring Stanley prison, were turned into a massive internment camp until 1945. Scores died during the occupation. A simple cemetery stands near the college overlooking the Pacific, a somber reminder of the war.

We followed the road from the cemetery back into town, taking a brief detour on one of Stanley’s beaches, until we found the old post office and police station. The post office still bears the insignia of King George VI. The police station, the oldest surviving police station in Hong Kong, is now a Wellcome Supermarket. We stopped in for refreshments and I wandered around looking at the ancient beams and stone walls. There are some really cool old pictures of Hong Kong in the cleaning product section and feminine hygiene product aisles.

Old Stanley Police Station is now a grocery store.

After we cooled down with some refreshing snacks, we waded into the crowds of Stanley Market. Markets in Hong Kong are a real test for the claustrophobic. Scores of people jostle around one another to find a deal on cheap clothing and souvenirs of Hong Kong. You can find rugby jerseys and athletic clothes, Bruce Lee and ObaMaoist T-shirts, and knock-off designer fashion at bargain basement prices. We could have seen a lot more, but even the few hours we spent wore us out.

Our friend Khalid in Stanley Market.

Stanley was an easy bus trip from the Central Bus Terminus. It was a great way to spend the day with friends and see some of the greener parts of Hong Kong Island.  Take the 6 or the 66. You can also take the 6X express bus, which goes through Aberdeen Tunnel, but the scenery going over Wong Nai Chung Gap, which saw some of the heaviest hand to hand fighting during the war, was well worth the extra bus travel time, and we saw breathtaking views of Hong Kong from both sides of the island.

Aussie Summer: Animals Down Under

G’day, mates. Our time here in Oz is drawing to a close and the last few days have been a whirlwind of activity with Christmas and Boxing Day and visits to Melbourne Aquarium, the Moonlit Animal Sanctuary, and to top it off, a day at the races at Stony Creek horse track in eastern Victoria. Summer came out in full force yesterday with hot temperatures and sunny skies. Looks like a good day for a swim.

Gentoo Penguins at the Melbourne Aquarium.

Speaking of swimming, our visit to Melbourne Aquarium brought us up close with King and Gentoo penguins. The King Penguins stand a good 10 to 15 cm taller than their cheeky cousins. The Gentoo Penguins at the exhibit were very curious about the throngs of holiday gawkers that crowded the aquarium. I would have taken more pictures here, but since much of the marine life here is sensitive to light I observed the staff instructions to abstain from using my flash (though many other visitors showed no such courtesy). One of the top attractions were the rays and sharks, including new baby Hammerhead sharks.

While the aquarium was interesting, the crowds were a real turn off. So we headed to the country for a day at the races. On the way we stopped at Moonlit Animal Sanctuary. The sanctuary has tours at night (thus the name) but since were were heading farther afield, we visited early in the day so we could see some of Australia’s most iconic animals.

Regina and I feeding a kangaroo.

Of course no visit Down Under would be complete without seeing a kangaroo or a wallaby. Not only did we see some, we also got to feed them.

Big Emu is looking at you.

The animals at the sanctuary were of course used to human visitors, but a few were still quite shy (as is their usual nature) such as the sleepy koalas and Rita the Hairy-Nose Wombat, who made a special appearance for lunch. Interesting fact about koalas and wombats, they both have a special bone in their rump that has a specialized purpose. The koalas’ developed so they could spend the bulk of their lives balanced in the Eucalyptus trees that are the source of most of their food and water needs (they get their water from the leaves except in cases of extreme drought).

Godson Aiden feeding a wallaby.

The wombat’s bony butt is used as a defensive tool. The wombat can run extremely fast, and when corned in stumps or holes, can use its rump to smash the skull bones of attacking dingoes, dogs and other predators.

Sleepy koala.

The Hairy-Nose wombat looks a little like a cross between a giant Guinea pig
and a Boston Terrier. Most of the mammals at the reserve are marsupials, so the young spend much of their early development in their mothers’ pouches. The wombat evolved a little differently. Since she spends the bulk of her work time digging, the mama wombat developed a pouch that faces her rear, so that dirt stays off of her developing young.

Rita the Hairy-Nose Wombat at lunch.

We also saw a couple sleepy Tasmanian Devils and some Dingoes as well as some baby emus and various other birds. Australia is home to an amazing variety of bird life. When we were camping in Bright, Australia, before Christmas we saw (and heard) several varieties of cockatoo, including Galahs and Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, which fly in huge flocks all over Australia. We also saw several different types of lorikeets, which are a type of parrot also found continent-wide. The loudest and most unique birds we saw/heard was the Kookaburra. I tried hard to get a picture of one close up in the wild, but they were on to me the moment I pulled my camera out.

Cheeky kookaburra on the hike to Wandiligong.

The kookaburra has a unique warning call that it uses to alert others of threats. One bird will sound the alarm, which will then be picked up by several others, creating a cacophony that sounds like a troupe of tortured howler monkeys screaming from the trees. I’ve never heard birds make such a racket. The Kookaburra looks like a fluffy brown and white ball with a long bluish beak. Up close their feathers also have green and blue hues which add to their unique appearance.

When we were in Bright we also happened to see a platypus in the wild. He was swimming at the base of a bridge near our cabin. I didn’t have my camera so you’ll have to take my word for it. Apparently sighting a platypus in the wild is a rare achievement, so we count ourselves blessed to have seen one. It looks a bit like a beaver with a muddy duck bill. We watched it swim from the bridge for several minutes before it disappeared into its riverbank cave.

Wandiligong lorikeet wants a cracker.

After out time at the animal sanctuary we headed to Stony Creek Racecourse to watch an old-fashioned Aussie-style country horse race. There were several activities for kids and whole families came out to enjoy a sunny day at the races. Im not much of a gambler, but I managed to make out pretty good for the day and was able to pay for our drinks with my winnings and still have a little extra. Stony Creek is a grass track with no bleachers, so we brought out a picnic lunch and some camp chairs and posted next to the track.

A day at the races.

We had a ‘grouse’ time, and finished the day in Mirboo North at the Grand Ridge Brewery. This brewery is well off the beaten path, but if you’re a bit adventurous the detour is worth it. Treat yourself to a pot of pilsener, just mind that you have a designated driver or the coppers will nab you for sure.

Signing off from Oz, we’ll see you from Hong Kong in the New Year.

Aussie Summer: Travels through Ned Kelly Country

Inside the Old Melbourne Gaol

Good day, mates. How ya’ going? This Christmas, instead of heading home to the U.S., Regina and I visited our friends Stephanie and Craig and their two boys in Melbourne, Australia. When planning our trip we were told that Southern Australia would be HOT, but summer had not yet started upon our arrival, so the first few days of our trip we piled on all the clothes we had brought and headed for indoor activities such as visiting the Old Melbourne Gaol (or Jail as we spell it).

The Old Melbourne Gaol was hardly warmer than the outdoors, and it was easy to see that getting caught for a crime in the 18^th century was horrid, especially since many the crimes of idleness and vagrancy were punishable with a three-year sentence, and whistling in jail could get you put in solitary confinement. Children were routinely imprisoned for vagrancy, and many children of female inmates were forced to make the prison their home.

It’s possibly because of these cruel and unusual prosecutions and punishments, that those who were disenfranchised by English law and fought against it became folk heroes for the founding folks of Australia.

The Old Emu, in Milawa, Victoria. Ned Kelly stood trial here on horse thievery charges. They now sell mustard.

Without a doubt Edward “Ned” Kelly is the most famous folk hero in Australia; and as he lived in the state of Victoria where we are visiting there are tributes and remnants of him abound.

Kelly, a bushranger who made a living re-appropriating horses and bank funds, was caught in a web of circumstance. The son of a former convict from Ireland, “Red” Kelly, Ned was in and out of the English penal system from an early age. His first conviction stemmed from a fight with a local Chinese merchant when Ned was a teenager. But it was the events of 1878 when a local drunken constable visited the Kelly home to issue an arrest warrant for his brother.

The constable was searching for one of Ned’s younger brothers on the charge of horse thievery. Ned’s mother Ellen demanded to see the warrant which legend has it was never adequately produced. After a brief struggle between the constable and one of his sisters and mother, Ellen was hauled into jail. Declared outlaws, Ned and his brothers evaded authorities and attacked the coppers when cornered for the next couple of years, often protected by sympathetic bush folk.

The Glenrowan Inn

The Fitzpatrick Incident–which was what the assult with the constable would be called–successfully branded Ned and his brothers as outlaws, but it was an incident at Stringybark Creek in which Ned and his compatriots foiled an ambush which resulted in the deaths of three policemen.

Of course you may know much of this from one of the movies made about Ned Kelly, the 1970 film starring Mick Jagger with a soundtrack by Kris Kristofferson and Merle Haggard is far better than the 2003 Heath Ledger film if you want to know more about the story.

Of course no amount of movie watching compares to visiting the site of the final showdown in Glenrowan—where Ann Jones’ Glenrowan Inn stood,  which was where the Kelly gang was holding out in their handmade armor waiting for the final showdown with Victorian troopers.  We drove through Glenrowan after camping in the Victorian bush for three days outside of Melbourne. All that remains of the inn is a reproduced placard on an empty lot.

The site of Ned Kelly's last stand, represented by a painted bollard.

Back in Melbourne at the Old Melbourne Gaol actors playing Ned and Ellen Kelly share the Kelly saga with visitors from all over. The old prison is one of the most popular attractions in Melbourne. The actors even take us to the gallows where Ned Kelly, and at least 134 other condemned inmates, drew his last breath.

James with Ned and Ellen Kelly, with the rope of the gallows looming behind.

Next to the Old Gaol in the former Melbourne Watch house, where city police processed countless offenders, including several of Australia’s most notorious criminals; including Mark Brandon “Chopper” Read and infamous Australian gangster “Squizzy” Taylor. During the tour a former Melbourne police sergeant separates the tour group by gender and berates the tourists much in the way that might have been done during an actual booking.

I took the tour with my friend Craig and his 10-year-old son Rhys. We were locked in a holding cell with twenty other men(in a room built for far fewer) as the lights were cut off. Minus the cursing and expletives that might normally accompany such an experience, this served as a tepid sort of Australian scared-straight program—but with a cool tour of the decaying stone building.

The watch house was decommissioned in 1994 and the tour has been as popular a part of the whole Melbourne Gaol experience. The tour includes a visit to the padded room, the recreation yard, and the interrogation cells. There is quite a bit of prisoner graffiti and oddly enough toilet paper on the ceiling which the jail never cleaned. I imagine that keeping the conditions of the cells as such worked as a deterrent, but

Rhys and Craig at the watch house

the watch house did brisk business when it was open.

Australia isn’t all outlaws and penal history however, though it’s a country founded by convicts, our other stories will have to wait until next time. Until then, cop ya’ later, mate!

Monkey Me!: Regina’s tales of simians with tails

Okay, so I’ve been working on serious answers to you reader questions, but since I’m on vacation in Australia we’ll be resuming our Q & A when I return. This week we feature a blog by my wife Regina, who shares her experiences with our simian cousins. Enjoy!

On our first trip to Thailand, this sign lined the nature hike paths

I have a thing for monkeys. It’s no secret.  When James and I would discuss having children in our younger days, I would plead the case for a pet monkey rather than a human baby.  I did some research and found that in most places that’s not legal, and even where it is legal to have a monkey for a pet, it’s ill-advised.

Camera case thief.

On my first trip to Thailand I got close enough to a monkey for it steal my camera case.  It seems the string that hangs off it is about as exciting to a monkey as it is to a kitten.  I got some pictures, but I could also hear the echo of what the American Travel Doctor who I had seen before I left the states told me about not petting or even getting close to ANY animals abroad; no cats, no puppies, and by all means no monkeys.  He told me that if I got bit I would have to be airlifted to the nearest hospital for a rabies shot.  That doctor made it hard for me to get the camera case back when the monkey swiped it, but luckily the owner of that monkey helped me retrieve it without injury. During my latest trip to Southern Thailand I was excited to read that monkey troops lived on the cliffs that surrounded the beaches where we would be staying in Railay Beach. Of course, whenever I’ve been somewhere that’s had wild monkeys, they seem to lose the majestic aura of mystery when I see them scavenging through garbage cans, which is what the troop on Railay was doing when I happened upon them. I was, however, extremely pleased to meet Harry the Monkey in Railay.  A baby Macaque, he was rescued by the locals when the mother monkey was attacked and killed by another Macaque. So now Harry lives with the humans, adopted by the local Thai on the island.   I found Harry hanging out with his folks (different locals) in all sorts of places during my five days there.   In the morning I might see Harry walking to the beach with one of his Papas down the foot path while I was on my way to get coffee and by day Harry was usually leashed to a tree near the tourist beach, in the evenings he could be found roaming free at a Rasta bar where the climbers hang out. In one of the first direct encounters with Harry, at the Rasta bar, he took off James’ glasses and was very ornery, so while I wanted to play and pet on the one hand, Harry wasn’t likely going to be calm and cuddly.  But, as is my style, I picked up a banana from the free breakfast at the hotel each morning and carried in my bag hoping to run into Harry. One afternoon I found Harry sitting on a blanket eating lunch with the hawkers (sellers of local wares, food, beverages, etc) on the beach.  He had rice on his hands and feet (since he eats with both right? ).  Even then, by the end of the week Harry only took my banana after I gave it to one of the locals to peel and give to him. This day did get my courage up to put out my hand to Harry when he was by himself hanging out in the shade of his tree.  Consciously pushing back the fear that the travel doctor had put in my head originally about petting foreign animals and rabies shots,  I meekly put out my hand, palm down, to Harry and was surprised when he looked into my eyes and carefully climbed on to the back on my hand.  He stayed very still and looked at me, as if to make sure I wasn’t going to move suddenly.  As I hadn’t expected him to climb up, my hand was palm down and I didn’t want to make any sudden movements, though it was challenging to hold his weight fully in the position. I’m not sure how long we stood together like that before I noticed a long appendage about the size of a pencil between my ring and middle finger. Sure enough Harry had an erection and seems to be getting himself off between my digits. Because he was also holding my hand with all four of his, I had no way of easily removing him. It was such a delicate matter, trying to disconnect myself from Harry without destroying either his dignity or mine, and I was still holding my camera in the other hand since, before that moment, I was still trying to document.

Little Harry

As I was struggling to get Harry to let go of my hand, one of the hawkers who sells soda and beer on the beach, a hard nosed lady-boy that we had gotten to know over the course of our stay, came over under the tree where Harry and I stood.  “He really likes you,” she said.  And it was true Harry the monkey and I had a moment together, just not in a way I was ready for. Merry Monkey & Happy Christmas !  May you find your more evolved monkey self in the New Year.  love, Reg.

First installment of reader questions: Food

Hey, thanks for all the questions you guys sent. Instead of answering them all at once I’m going to dole them out a few at a time. But please keep them coming.

These first questions come from our friend Gabe, who asks:

What kind of foods are you eating? What do you have for breakfast? Pretty standard fare, or something wildly exotic? Do you miss peanut butter toast? Can you get good coffee? Can you get good cheese? Milk?  What’s some wacky food that you never thought you’d eat, that you actually love?

The first month or so that we were here we ate a lot of friend rice for breakfast.  Thrown a few veggies in with some leftover & rice, and viola! Instant delicious breakfast.  Unfortunately, rice puts on pounds, and we both started to have to squeeze into our slacks, so we’ve gone to a simple breakfast of oatmeal.

We found that we can buy great cashews and roasted almonds here at the herbal medicine shops to go with our daily oatmeal.  Dried fruit was more difficult as raisins and apricots and other dried fruits in the grocery are mostly imported from the U.S., so  we’ve discovered dried wolf-berries–red, raisin-type berries that are not sweet, but full of antioxidants– to our oatmeal along with cinnamon from Saigon and local Hong Kong honey.

We can get good coffee, mostly imported from Indonesia.  The coffee here is good and we purchased a French press, but if we’re out and about there are the ubiquitous Starbucks outlets and Pacific Coffee shops all over Hong Kong.

We can get great cheese, but it’s all imported and very expensive.  The nearest import is New Zealand which is where the good butter comes from as well.  You can get milk refrigerated or in a box on the shelf.  We only use condensed milk for our coffee and buy it in a can.

Josh Arnold and some fresh fish.

We went out to hot pot at Little Sheep Hot Pot in Causeway Bay a couple months back for a fantastic meal consisting of varied meats, fish and vegetables cooked in a cauldron in the middle of our table. The cauldron, which had a divider in the center, had hot and spicy broth on one side and a milky broth on the other. The way to eat hot pot is to dip the food into the broth like a fondue until it is cooked to your liking. This particular restaurant focused on mutton, but had loads of fish and vegetables as well. Tray after tray of assorted raw meats and fish were served on a silver cart next to our table, where we would greedily pick at them and throw them into the boiling broth.

The spicy cauldron.

A word of caution: when they say it’s spicy, IT’S SPICY!

There also some great Thai and Vietnamese restaurants here, and there’s even a chicken and waffle place walking distance from us in Soho. We’ve also found some killer hamburger joints with great beer selections. As far as traditional Thai food is concerned, Tuk Tuk Thai in Soho is cheap and delicious. It also sits at the edge of a fantastic wet market.

There are loads of little fried meat stands that sell sausages, chicken, pork ribs, eggplant, squid, prawns and countless other meats for pocket change, and during commute hours crowds will jostle to get to the front of the scrum to get certain items before they run out. Not necessarily healthy, but a cheap alternative to McDonald’s (which I have successfully avoided since 1994).

Window meat anyone?

There are also tons of dim sum restaurants around Hong Kong. Indeed the city is famous for them. Dim sum is like Chinese Tapas, small portions of food, usually steamed dumplings, brought to the table over a long period of time, so that socializing and relaxing are as important to the meal as what is eaten. We tried Luk Yu one Saturday with some friends. Long known for being a hangout for Hong Kong’s literati, Luk Yu looks much as it might have when it opened in the 1930’s. It serves many traditional dim sum dishes, but the restaurant is widely renowned for its tea. Luk Yu is Cantonese for Lu Yu, a Tang Dynasty poet who wrote The Classic of Tea, which is about China’s tea culture. There are many other options for dim sum in Hong Kong, however, with countless restaurants making money hand over fist during Sunday brunches.

Regina enjoying some dim sum in Central.

At the Hong Kong Police Athletic Club there is a bar that serves fried duck tongue, pickled liver slices and some other indistinguishable meats that were quite tasty, yet left me feeling a little confused. Duck is very popular in Hong Kong, and countless shops sell them whole and roasted for less than a dinner out. There are supermarkets with many of the things we were used to at home, but there are plenty of wet markets and produce stands selling fresh fruits, vegetables and flowers. The variety of fruit is dazzling, with several types of oranges (Hong Kong consumes more oranges per-capita than any place on Earth). We have also hired an Indian helper, who cooks Indian food for us two times a week. It has become a staple of our existence here in Hong Kong.

Fresh fruit stand on a quiet Sunday morning.

Chicken foot soup is on a lot of local menus, but neither of us has been inclined to try it,  or durian fruit … yet.

Thanks for your questions. Please keep them coming and I will update you as often as I can. Remember, if you have any suggestions just drop me a line.

Thanks,

James

Now Taking Your Questions

Okay, it’s been a bit but…here’s what’s been happening.

Smog is still thick at night.

Wednesday, December 1, was my 40th birthday. And at risk of sounding a little sorry for myself, I miss my friends a lot. I have desperately wanted to find quality time to write, but have found myself so busy that any time off I have had has been spent sleeping. No TV, no movies, just eating and sleeping. That is not to say I haven’t been having a blast. I have. I just spend more time writing for school than writing for…well…you. Please accept my humblest apologies. Moving on…

A lot happened in November. Regina started Qi Gong classes. I took up boxing and started growing a mustache for Movember.

Glorious fast food.

We saw Zen monk Thich Naht Hahn and the Flaming Lips on the same day. We took a junk trip around Hong Kong’s many inlets and bays.We had an awesome Thanksgiving feast at our colleague Shane McKinney’s house in Sai Kung.

Our school had its annual cultural food festival, complete with performances from the students and foods from their respective countries. All in all a pretty good month. But as the holidays approach I begin to miss my friends back home. Fortunately Skype works wonders for seeing people face to face. Plus it’s cheap as shit, so you can talk as long as you want.
We had a small housewarming/birthday part on Saturday, December 4. We were hanging out on our back patio area (technically a parking spot) at around 9:30 p.m. when one of our upstairs neighbors, apparently disgruntled that we were outside talking after dark, took it upon themselves to dump water from their window on the fourth or fifth floor. Pile drivers and jackhammers run all of the time here, but socializing at night outside…I mean come on. We weren’t even that loud.

Window meat anyone?

Hong Kong’s weather is changing to a nice cool Autumn-like temperature, but the last week has also been really polluted. Turns out that the pollution in Hong Kong for November was the worst for that month in over a decade. It’s so thick that you can’t see across Victoria Harbor on a sunny day.

We’ve only got one more week of school before we head for Australia to spend the Christmas break.

Second Street

I’m working on some narratives to share with all of you, but in the meantime I would like you to ask me what you would like to know about Hong Kong. They can be simple questions about important sights, or complex questions about politics or the environment in Hong Kong. I will research you queries and give you as thoughtful and complete an answer to each one as I can.

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Of course I will also post photos here and on Facebook, but if you’re curious about something specific, drop me a line.

Hope to hear from you soon.

James